Colman Andrews is such a gifted writer he can make Irish cooking not only sound delicious but also seem exciting, even news-worthy. That hasn’t happened since the first potato landed on those green shores all those centuries ago. This book, the Country Cooking of Ireland (Chronicle, $50), is more than a collection of recipes. Andrews captures the Irish spirit by writing about everything from ancient fables to of-the-minute consumer trends. you really sense the people behind the recipes. Andrews, co-founder of the esteemed Saveur magazine, expertly weaves broad observations of Irish culture with illuminating quotes and amusingly quirky details. (Che Guevara descended from one of the “tribes” of Galway.) Of Irish heritage himself, Andrews can trace his father’s side back to counties Tyrone and Donegal.
Andrews presents 225 clearly written recipes ranging from brotchan foltchep, an ancient recipe for leek and oatmeal soup, to corned beef (it’s really Irish, he insists) and colcannon, to a smoked eel tempura and wok-smoked salmon. His recipe sources range from 18th-century manuscripts to the menus of hotels and restaurants across today’s Ireland. Reading this book, you can see why salmon merits its own chapter as the “magical fish” while potatoes get their due as the “definitive food.”
In his cookbook, Colman Andrews calls this recipe “a modern version of the famous soup, also called brotchan (or brochan or brothchan) roy, or ‘the king’s soup,’ that is said to have been the favorite dish of Ireland’s celebrated sixth-century spiritual and literary icon, St. Columkille. it is … quite possibly the oldest traditional Irish dish for which it is possible to reconstruct a recipe.” We adapted the recipe and added more broth for a souplike consistency.
Leek and Oatmeal Soup (Brotchan Foltchep)2 tablespoons butter4 leeks, trimmed, sliced thinly3 cups chicken broth2 cups milk1/2 cup Irish steel-cut oats1/2 teaspoon each: ground mace, saltFreshly ground pepper
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat; add the leeks. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are very soft, 12-15 minutes.
Add the broth and milk. Raise the heat to high; heat to a boil. Sprinkle in the oatmeal. Add the mace, salt and pepper to taste. Return the liquid to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to low. Cover; simmer until oats are tender, 45 minutes.
Yield: 4 to 6 servingsNutrition information per serving: 241 calories, 48 percent of calories from fat, 13 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 67 mg cholesterol, 10 g carbohydrates, 21 g protein, 812 mg sodium, 3 g fiber
Eat healthy for lessNutritious foods can be expensive, but dietitians say there are ways to go healthy without going broke:
Plan ahead. Write out a weekly menu after looking at coupons and advertisements from grocery stores. use leftovers for additional meals; extra vegetables and meats can go into bagged lunches, soups, stews, casseroles, and salads.
Save on unhealthy extras. you can hold on to a lot of money by avoiding chips, soda, and prepackaged baked goods.
look for cheaper proteins. Beans, lentils, and eggs all are nutritious alternatives to meat. If you can’t bear to go without meat, eat it in smaller portions.
Know your top 10. make a list of the healthy foods you buy the most and comparison shop at local groceries, health food shops, and warehouse stores. Aim to stock up on those staples at the lowest prices.
buy produce in season. it will be much cheaper; remember that farmers’ markets often have great deals.
go beyond fresh. Canned, frozen, and dried foods — fruits, vegetables, and meats — are healthy but often less pricey alternatives to fresh foods, especially if you buy generic versions. just watch sugar and salt content.
think in bulk. buy big packages of meat and divide them into meal-sized portions for freezing, and store whole-grain rice and cereal in airtight containers. you also can cook large amounts of meals such as stew and freeze smaller portions for easy preparation.
Plant a garden. Grow your favorite fruits and vegetables right in your backyard.
take the long view. a bag of apples may be more expensive than a bag of cookies, but consider this: you’re not likely to eat more than one apple in a single sitting.
Simple pork chopsThis recipe could make a quick work-night dinner.
Teriyaki Pork Chops and Scallion Rice1 cup quick-cooking brown rice1 tablespoon minced ginger2 cloves garlic, minced1/3 cup lite soy sauce2 tablespoons rice vinegar1 tablespoon honey4 4-ounce boneless center-cut pork chops (about 3/4-inch thick)1/2 cup chopped scallionsPrepare the rice according to package directions, omitting any fat. Combine ginger, garlic, soy sauce, vinegar, and honey in a large bowl. Add the pork chops and let them marinate for 15 to 60 minutes, turning once. place the chops on a baking sheet coated with cooking spray and heat the broiler.
Pour marinade into a small saucepan and bring to boil. Boil gently for 3 to 4 minutes. Spoon 1 tablespoon of the cooked marinade and the scallions into the cooked rice. (Reserve some scallions for garnish, if desired). meanwhile, broil the chops for 5 minutes. Turn and broil another 2 minutes, or until nearly cooked through. Brush with marinade and broil 1 to 2 minutes longer, until browned.
To serve, spoon the remaining marinade over the chops.
Yield: 4 servings.Nutritional analysis for each serving: 390 calories, 28 g protein, 45 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 10g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 1,005 mg sodium
